The last day was almost entirely spent in Cidade Velha where I headed to in an "aluguer" boarded at Sucupira first thing in the morning. I never seem to get tired of going that way ... there is something quite relaxing and even inspiring about this village among ruins of what "was once a pivot of Portuguese empire".
First photo taken as I walked out of the Pension.
The Pillory square is where the "aluguers" drop us, which is also the centre of Cidade Velha, a permanent reminder of slavery and the harsh times slaves had to endure when punishment was carried out. In 1466, this village then named Ribeira Grande was an important transcontinental slavery port for trading slaves from Guinea-Bissau and Sierra Leone to Brazil and the Caribbean and that we shoudn't forget.
I walked up and down along the shore watching the villagers in their daily chores ... women washing their clothes using sea water and that harsh stone like soap I have never seen anywhere but in Africa ..., which eliminates all the stains ... but which also changes the original cloth colours.
I then headed towards the further end on my way to the Church, as I could distinctly hear some church songs in the distance.
The Church of Nossa Senhora do Rosário over five centuries old, whose patterned blue tiles covering its walls are worth noting, together with the 17th century tombstones still to be seen on its floor, was finally visited by me ..., though in order to do so I had to attend a one hour mess. I was impressed by it, as well as the priest's discourse, I must confess ... a discourse focussed on "endurance", patience ... and hardships ... things I believe these villagers are commonly used to.
As I walked out, decided to wander through the little roads (like Rua da Banana) which are still lined with thatched houses, said to have been the first settlement. Some of them have been turned into bed and breakfast houses, which I'll have to try to stay at one of these days ...
Because one year ago I climbed up to the Fort São Filipe this time decided to walk towards Port Mosquito instead, though I just managed to walk as far as the community of Lagos. On the way there I noticed an open chuch by the road going up overlooking the bay and soon after a tree shrine in the opposite direction.
Having walked back to the Pillory square and ordered a grilled fish to be prepared at the Pelourinho Café restaurant, while waiting for the meal to be ready I wandered further along the shore, as a fishing boat was being pulled onto the beach.
(to be continued)
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