The 8 day cultural trip to Iran - "Iranian Treasures" - (Day 7 afternoon) - Yazd, Maghbareh-ye Davâzdah Iman and Zendan-e Iskandar - The 22nd of September 2014

Strolling along the intricate back streets of Yazd was quite interesting as around each corner there would almost inevitably be either a blue painted dome of some hidden mosque or a bâdgir amidst the golden sandy-like coloured walls of the local houses.

 

We were beginning to realise and feel the extent of our attachment to this country as the afternoon was running shorter and the estimated time of departure to Tehran, our last stop over before flying back home, was getting closer.

 

There had been an argument between the group and the guides the previous evening following the possibility of not being able to get back to Tehran on time to catch the flight to Paris, though in the back of our minds I don't think many of us would mind staying had we not scheduled commitments we had to see to.

 

Despite Massoud being on the alert and on the phone almost all the time in a dramatic and theoretical attempt to solve the problem there was a distinct possibility by then that we might actually miss the connecting flight.

 

I didn't let myself be affected by it and took advantage of every minute to capture what could be my last images of Iran. 

We stopped outside two mausoleums located inside the same domed room in a square bearing their names Davâzdah Iman and Zendan-e Iskandar, the latest, which we ended up visiting. It is known as the prison of Alexander, once the sovereign was imprisoned there in an extensive underground chamber beneath the courtyard. The present building finished in 1305 is used now as a theological school

 

 

As we were waiting to be received by an artist, whom I had spoken to the previous day at the Hotel galleries (once he was exposing some of his handicraft material there), whose atelier was next to Zendan-e Iskandar I wandered around another shop, where I came across some beautifully painted miniatures on paper. Hesitation led me not to buy any, which I later regretted, as the only time I had seen similar miniatures (calligraphy associated to painting) had been in Uzbekistan (where I ended up only buying one miniature painting on paper to offer and none for myself). The ones on camel bone were not as fine as the two I had bought before, which in turn made happy with what I had bought so far.

I ended up buying three small glazed tile like artistic pieces with symbolic features to offer my daughter, my brother and a girlfriend at work. For all they looked rather simple the design was exquisite and the perfection of the pieces outstanding.

 

The 8 day cultural trip to Iran - "Iranian Treasures" - (Day 7 afternoon) - Yazd, Masjed-e Jame - The 22nd of September 2014

We drove by the remains of the walls that once encircled the city towards the beautiful clock Tower on our way to the Masjed-e Jame and if it may be true to say that we had already visited enough Friday Mosques to be astounded by any in particular it is also true that each of them had its specificities that made them special in their own way.

Having been founded by the Seljuk commander in 1119 over a ruined Sassanid fire temple, the Masjed-e Jame of Yazd is said to have been largely rebuilt in the 14th century. Its entrance is decorated by numerous plaques recording local decrees, taxes and endowments but is nevertheless understandably worth looking at because of its ceramic work. The fact that the minarets are said to be disproportionate added some peculiar touch to the whole ensemble, I believe.

Once we walked into the prayer chamber the countless geometrically arranged blues against brick surfaces with cut and moulded plaster infills caught our attention almost immediately.  From a certain moment onwards I started looking up and letting myself be taken by the domed ceilings and some of the intricate mosaic details.

 

The surrounding atmosphere was one of silence and pray and the fact that Massoud asked us to pray led me to take advantage of that time and pray myself.

Considered one of the finest specimens of Azari style in Persia, the Friday Mosque of Yazd is also said to have one of the finest Mihrabs of its kind in Persia. Not being able to accurately define whether it is true or not I somehow felt the turquoises and tinges of blue had a strong impact on me.

 

A few women in black chadors could be seen crossing the courtyard. Never throughout the trip had we seen so many women wearing black as a predominant colour and covered up as we did in this area but despite the strict rules the Yazd population seemed to follow their kindness and "open" attitude towards foreigners was still there.