The Uzbek culture and traditions circuit, Aydarkul lake and Aydar yurt camp, (Day 6 afternoon cont. and evening) - The 12th of September 2013

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We stopped at the Aydarkul lake secluded from civilization. Located in the middle of the desert its origin is said to have been due to the excess of drainage water that  was canalled onto Arnasay. We were supposed to have taken a bath in its clear waters according to the programme but because of the morning delay we decided to just wander along its shore and appreciate the surrounding beauty before heading to the Kazakh yurt camp, which was just a few kilometres away.  

We reached the Aydar yurt camp by late afternoon and despite the fact of having already been to a tent camp in Pushkar, the moment I looked at these typical Kazakh felt tents I instinctively felt it would be entirely different.

They were covered with coloured woven patterned mats placed along the tent walls which are said to be stuffed with straw in-between to prevent the cold. The floors were covered with carpets and sheepskins and there were exquisite chandeliers hanging from the top. I must confess they looked and "felt" rather cosy. The painted wooden doors gave them a festive look.

Yurts are said to have been used by nomad tribes in Central Asia since the early times through to nowadays. One can still see them alongside winter houses, though for the most part they are almost exclusively used by shepherds in the mountains. Clay huts with reed roofs ("chubtoras") are said to have appeared much later.

I wandered about the camp trying to locate the communal restaurant, as well as the toilets and shower cabins, located a few metres away from "my" yurt (number 6), which I would be sharing with our guide rather than with any of the couples.

I was beginning to fall in love with the golden mustard-like colour of the desert sand and the silence that seemed to emanate from the whole surrounding atmosphere when all of sudden Nathalie and David came over with an Ukrainian millionaire guest wanting to show us something.

We were all shocked and highly disturbed by the sight of a lamb being cut open so as to be later prepared for his dinner, (which he wanted to share with us). I don't know what made me grab the camera and photograph the animal ... I reckon it was a way of looking at it from a reporter's perspective, because the truth is I was beginning to feel nauseated with the sight of blood.    

Saudat called out for me to go on the camel ride and so I managed to move away from the disturbing scenario and wander about for half an hour as the sun was setting.

We ended up having dinner at an open patio-like restaurant where we were served local food, plus the grilled lamb (some of us had seen earlier) reduced to chunks, as courtesy of the Ukrainian guest, who kept on wanting to share everything with us.

We later gathered around a bonfire whilst listening to a Kazakh Akin (singer of National Kazak songs). His monotonous and rather sad songs echoed through the night. The instrument he was playing had only two cords but his voice seemed to mix almost perfectly with it. 

At one instance the rhythm seemed to sound more festive so everyone danced around the fire and that was quite a moment ...

I was particularly glad to have someone like Saudat in the tent for reasons that need not be written down. We did go to sleep rather late as we engaged into a conversation that not only led us to talk about our personal life and fears but also some of the experiences we had had to go through as mothers.