Worshipping places, cemeteries and the like almost always make me feel vulnerable and slightly shaky notwithstanding the fact that they also bring about an inner soothing silence I can hardly explain. They make me ponder on life in general and mine in particular. What exactly is life's aim ? What are we supposed to achieve or leave behind? Is there life beyond death? Will I ever be able to see the beloved ones I have lost? Will it make a difference?
Theses were questions I asked myself once more as we visited the Tchor Bakhr double necropolis complex, where the tombs of Mahomet's descendants, Abou Bakhr Saad and Abou Bakhr Ahmad are to be found. We were the sole visitors apart from a couple and a child, who requested a priest to pray on their behalf, which seems to be quite common around here. We could actually hear the priest who was in a cell to the left of the entrance hall singing what might have been verses from the Koran out loud.
The whole ensemble incorporates a mosque, a khanaka and a madrasaha facing one necropolis. It is said that from 1560 through to 1563 Abdullah Khan elevated this monument to be attended by members of the sect Soufis Djoubari, this being the reason as to why many Boukhara nobles had their tombs placed close to those of the saints some time later.
We walked along the numerous rows of tomb stones in silence until we reached a circle-like place at the far end which is supposed to be one of reflection. There was a young lady in almost static ecstasy-like sitting on the circle bench as we joined in to either pray, think or do whatever we felt like, following the suggestion of the guide to "feel" the surrounding atmosphere.
(to be continued)
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