The Uzbek culture and traditions circuit, Bukhara (Day 4 morning) - The 10th of September 2013

As we got out of the Hotel we walked just a few metres to the right hand side so as to visit the madrasahs of Ouloug Beg and Abdoul Aziz Khan. As we sat down outside the Abdoul Aziz Khan's we could see the Toki Zargaron complex further back and the beautiful façade of the largest Madrasah of Bukhara, Ouloug Beg's, whose interior I had been looking forward to visiting, because of its rather unique star decoration, but which we were unfortunately not allowed to visit.

Its construction is said to have started in 1417 and although its arks and walls are decorated in  a rather simple manner it is said to reflect Ouloug Beg's  view of the world as an astronomer. Simple ascetic life is said to have been led here with regular prayers at the mosque, lectures in the darskhana and conversations in the shadowed galleries.

Just in front of it stood the madrasah of Abdoul Aziz Khan, clearly less "sober" in terms of design and  yet displaying a rather impressive façade, whose pishtak mosaic design is said to have been carried out by the greatest masters of the Chaybanid epoch. It was constructed  two hundred years later, in 1654 and is said to have challenged the limits imposed by the Islamic rules, as far as figurative representation is concerned  and its interior design considered an innovation. Despite not having been finished because of a decision on the part Of Abadoul Aziz Kahn's successor it nevertheless stands as an outstanding architectural "accomplishment".

We continued our "immersion" into the Arts and Crafts of the country having therefore headed back into the Toki Zargaron to visit some shops. We were strongly impressed by the quality of the artefacts available for sale  ... but even more when we were given the chance to watch as some of those were made.

We did learn quite a lot  about the Uzbek handicrafts and regional artistic expression, which are undoubtedly among the many aspects Uzbeks are proud of. I could have just stood there for endless hours ... silently watching those artists or listening to the vendor of spices ...

(To be continued)