I had been put into contact with a doctor who lived in the same building I was lodged at, who together with his children, decided to drive me around the most outstanding places on the island, which naturally included the marking of the original setting of the discoverers in 1470 very close to Anambo beach.
The visit continued through several "roças" in the various districts. They were not very different from one another in terms of layout - senzala-like slave accommodations, hospital (I have read that most of them had such premises so as to have the sick slaves get back to work as soon as possible), the foreman's accommodation and a bell to call out the slaves to work.
Having been abandoned after the independence some looked almost close to a state of "demolishment", with the exception of those which were re-adapted to other forms of exploration. I couldn't help thinking about some of the songs that made a difference in my generation, particularly when I was at University, and which were the first to highlight the wretched living conditions both slaves and workers under contract (a disguised form of slavery) had to endure at the mercy of the owners and foremen of the plantations ("roças").
Roça Monte Café - Me-Zochi district
We then stopped at São Nicolau waterfall and a colonial bridge dating back to 1944, before continuing towards other districts where other roças still stand or what remains of them, now having been taken by families who use their premises as their permanent housing.
Children could be seen almost everywhere and like it often happens in Africa approached out of curiosity at the sight of "white" visitors, namely to look at us revealing a natural shy attitude. I do remember one in particular who hid behind the porcelain roses he was proudly holding.
I had already seen pink coloured porcelain roses in Angola, but these ones looked rather different ...being vibrantly tinged of red and yellow.
I was impressed with the size of "Roça" Agostinho Neto's hospital in the Lobata district ... it "vaguely" provided me with an idea of the number of slaves who must have worked there ...
Hospital of "Roça" Agostinho Neto
We stopped by Lagoa Azul (Blue Lagoon) to have a pick-nick type of lunch and I was mesmerised by the beauty of this protected cove ... the colour of its waters filled my eyes and soul. Though there were quite a few families around doing the same we were doing ... there was some surrounding peaceful atmosphere ... as if none of us dared disturb such natural balance and beauty ...
We hanged around for quite a while before heading towards Pantufo, with its typical wooden houses standing on vertical wooden beamed legs along the dark pebbled beach where quite a few fragile sailing boats were lying around ... in an expectant attitude ..., very much like ours.
The visit ended with a view of Ilhéu das Cabras (the Islet of the Goats) ... before I decided to head (on my own) to the local stalls of the open market to have something to eat ..., which I soon found to be rather difficult, as most stalls were either closed or getting closed.
The "leve-leve" approach (which stands for a slow motion type of attitude towards life without letting oneself be pushed by any possible disturbing rush) started getting me "uncomfortable", for I had difficulties in finding someone to cook something for me, once most people had already "earned" enough for their daily necessities.
It does sometimes take time to really understand others, culturally speaking, that is ... but looking back and thinking how hard their lives were in the past I didn't find it hard to accept that at east then they had no rush ... no stress ... no impositions from "strangers" ... and they felt free to use their own pace the way they wanted ...
Quite an interesting day, in which I felt just like another member of the family I travelled with ...
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