The 12 Day Guatemala circuit (Day 4) - Almolonga and Zunil - The 28th of March 2008

Most of the fourth day was spent in indigenous markets, which naturally "made my day". I have always loved markets (any street market), and although I have never really found out what it is that "draws" me to them, the truth is I feel I can literally "dive into" them all day long without getting tired or even bored (which is what I did).

The smell of fruit and vegetables together with the whole "colourful bustling" made me dizzy of "excitement" as we were being "pushed around" in the Almolonga market place, lying 2310 metres above sea level in a valley often referred to as "the garden of Central America".

The typical zigzag huipils, the woven head bands and "tzutes", which many of the women wore, (I presume to protect themselves from the sun) made the whole "scenario" look a lot more interesting.

As we gradually moved out of the "pouring" crowd, we found ourselves in the local churchyard. The church looked quite different from the ones we are used to, but it was certainly its inside that caught our attention, once it was decorated with baloons of all colours, as if a party was to be carried out at any moment. It made me question  the solemn relationship we (Europeans) have with the "divine", which very rarely contemplates an "informal" exteriorization of either our happiness or sorrow.

We still managed to walk around the city side streets,  in what seemed an almost unstoppable loading and unloading of goods, before heading towards Zunil.

Prior to visiting yet another indigenous market we went to a local cemetry embedded in the hills and the city itself, where the guide thoroughly explained the whole rituals associated with death and the day of the dead.

I realised this is one more example in which Catholic and Pagan rituals merge. The "dressing" of the graves (painted in bright colours) on All Saints'day implies not only bringing along flowers but also food in a symbolic breaking of bread with the departed.

 In some communities that "special" day is celebrated with marimba music and fireworks. Believing that the dead are actually participating in the festivities many serenate their loved ones with songs they enjoyed during their "life" time.

 

Small kites and enormous ones made of crepe paper and bamboo (barriletes)  are flown and then let loose to soar up in the skies, so as to call the departed ones, who are supposed to identify  their families by the colours and decorations used in the kites, thus sliding down the string to join them below.

The symbolic tearing of the kites in pieces is symbolic of life and death all are there to celebrate.

(to be continued)