Madrid revisited and re-discovered ...

Madrid
30th October - 1st November 2010

I had been to Madrid several times before and consequently felt that not many things could impress me, possibly based on the fact that I had already visited most of the outstanding buildings, gardens and Museums that the city has to offer ... but the truth is that the weekend I recently spent there with my daughter  has shown me differently.

I don't know if it were the Autumn colours or just the light, but I found a different beauty in Parque del Buen Retiro ...

In trying to show her Plaza Mayor, I re-discovered its grandeur and the beauty of the Casa de la Panaderia painted murals ...

The  Royal Palace and some of the details of the Neo-Gothic Almudena Cathedral caught my attention again ...

Madrid Revisited ... Madrid re-discovered ...
A unique experience ...

Turkish Mosaic circuit. Day 9 (690 kilometre distance covered).

12th of October 2010
Istambul - Bursa - Selçuk

To reach Bursa we crossed the Sea of Marmara on a ferry boat, which was quite similar to the ones going across the Tagus ... and for moments, similarly to what had happened in many other circumstances along this circuit, it was as if I was back home ...

It didn't take long though, for me to realise I was, in fact, miles away from home (culturally) when we walked into the Yesil Cami, Bursa (known as the Green Mosque), completed in 1419 after having been commissioned by Sultan Mehmed I Celebi.

It was unfortunately undergoing restauration, though its entrance door, crowned by a half-dome with a cascade of cocárabe that ended in a star, really impressed me, as much as its outside windows and particularly its interior, decorated with blue-green tiles with blue, white and golden-yellow arabesques of tendrils and flowers.

Green Mosque turquoise decorated window (Left). Green Mosque entry façade (Right).

Green Mosque inner mosaic decorations.






We then walked onto the  Yesil Türbe (Green Mausoleum) under heavy rain, but which better place to seek protection than by this beautiful domed octogonal building clad externally with green tiles.

It was commissioned by the son of Sultan Mehmed I, Murad II, his successor following the death of the sovereign in 1421.

The Royal tomb (Right)), which is surrounded by seven other tombs, is richly decorated with scriptures and flower designs and white and blue glazed tiles. The Mausoleum  niches (Left) equally well decorated with tiles.

Our next stop was Selçuk, where we would be spending the next two nights. By the time we reached the hotel, I was physically tired and had developed a back ache, mostly for having been on the bus for such a long time. I hope tomorrow's visit to Ephesus, Priene and Didyma implies some walking, otherwise I'll get as restless as in today's last part of the circuit, not having been able able to find the adequate physical posture.

Street Art in Lisbon

Two  Lisbon street graffitis have been catching my attention for a while, though I haven't had time to photograph them, the reason being because every time I saw them I was inside a bus. I have finally taken the time to get off the bus and take their photo.

To be completely honest, I can't quite explain what has drawn me to these almost colourless graffitis ... (maybe) the expression on their faces ...,  or maybe the fact that one of them is only partly sketched and her hair just the rough texture of the wall ...

Other graffittis have been "colouring" the walls of old Lisbon buildings ... in a very powerful way ... the sequence of images speak for themselves ... and I am really happy to share them with those who have not been fortunate enough to see them (not even from inside a bus) ...

Christmas campaign to create a fund for the children of Calheta, Cape Verde

Christmas Campaign - 5th to 25thNovember 2010 

Following a conversation I had had with Sibylle some time ago, I have recently launched a Christmas campaign to collect second hand clothes and toys to ship out to Cape Verde (in a fairly complicated scheme). The toys will be distributed by  local kindergarten schools and the clothes will be sold  (also locally) at very reasonable prices, which will allow us to create a fund to help "our" children. Local people will  cooperate and play their part in ensuring we get some money for "their" children, by buying  those clothes.

Two more children of Calheta in need of some support ("Lola" and Ismael) have recently found themselves "godparents" (Carla Carreira and the couple Surama and Sérgio respectively), who will pay for their school fees and school material.

In fact, the number of Godparents has been increasing significantly and at the moment there are five people waiting for Sibylle to  further evaluate the situation locally regarding children who need the most, so that they may start colaborating. 

"Lola" (Left) and Ismael (Right).

I believe "godparents" will make a difference in these children's lives ... if it is going to be a small or a big difference, is irrelevant ... because I already know that this little girl from São Tomé, who has returned to Cape Verde, where her family is originally from in very hard conditions and Ismael, whose life has been as happy as it can, since his mother passed away at his birth, will certainly be brighter from this moment onwards, thanks  to these generous people.

Turkish Mosaic circuit. Days 8 and 9 (Istambul)

11th of October 2010 
The Hypodrome

Prior to having visited the "Blue Mosque" we  walked around the  Sultanahmet Square, referred to as the  Hippodrome  and Horse Square during the Byzantine and Ottoman Eras respectively.

The fact that the most precious edifices  are located in its vicinity make it an outstanding place to visit, though the ancient Egyptian Obelisk of Theodosius I dating back to 1474 - 1425 B.C. (Pharaoh Tutmoses III,) and later re-erected in the 4th century AD by the Roman Emperor Theodosius I; the Serpentine column with three interwinned bronze serpents brought from the Temple of Apollo, the Column of Constantine Porphyrgenitus and the German fountain, also known as the fountain of Kaiser Wilhem II (constructed  to commemorate the alliance between the German and Ottoman empires before the world War I) are still to be seen and  each of them is magnificient in its own way.

Detail (Left) of the German Fountain (Right).

The Column of Constantine Porphyrgenitus and the ancient Obelisk of Theodosius I  (Left) and a detail of its pedestal, in  which the emperor is seen watching the chariot races (Right).

The Serpentine Column

12th of October 2010

Hagia Sophia

Having been built in the Byzantine period, Hagia Sophia a former Eastern  Orthodox converted into a Mosque in 1453 and later a Museum, is considered the biggest and oldest church of he world and regarded as one of the seven wonders of the world, inspite of having been damaged and repaired several times.

The moment we walked in we were speechless because of its grandeur ... the beauty of its mosaics and whichever may be accounted for yet impossible to describe ... it was without any doubt the Church that mostly impressed me until now ... and I have visited quite a few ..., though I must confess it were the mosaics I was drawn to ...

Probably dating back to the 9th century, these mosaics  to be seen in the interior of the  half -dome of the apse portray the Virgin holding te Christ child on her lap and the Archangel Gabriel on her right.

On this pannel located on the eastern wall of the southern gallery, the Virgin Mary holding the Christ on her  lap is seen surrounded by Emperor John I Commenos on her left (holding a purse on his hand

 as a symbol of the imperial donation to the church) and his wife Irene holding a scroll.

This mosaic, "The last Judgement", located in the southern gallery of the upper floor depicts the Virgin Mother and John the Baptist on each side of Christ, reflecting the  suffering of human beings.

This panel of mosaics depicts Jesus sided by Emperor Constantine IX Monomachos (1042-1055) on the left and  Empress Zoe on the right.

Portrait of one of four Angels  (three of which are faceless) located in the pendatives of the main dome, completed as a fresco.

As we were walking out  onto the Basilica's courtyard, I wondered what else could still surprise me ..., I feel I haven't had time enough to "digest" all the richness I have  been "absorbing" ...

The Turkish Mosaic circuit. The afternoon and night of day 8 (Istambul Grand Bazaar and folkloric night).

11 the of October 2010
Istambul
The Grand Bazaar - Folkloric night

No image can  convey the real feeling of walking along Kapaliçarsi, considered to be the oldest and largest shopping centre of the world, constructed in 1464 by order of Mehmed II, the "Conqueror", with 64 streets and roads, 22 gates and around 3,600 shops sheltered by roofs and domes.

We had to write down the name of the gate where we would have to meet our guide, after the allowed time to spend our Turkish lire, in case we got lost in this "world" of  a countless variety of appealing artifacts in different colours and textures ... in which it is understandably easy to "get lost" (in every sense of the word). 

From gold to precious and semi-precious stones, leather, ceramic, silver and copperware, traditional folk costumes, religious icons, etc, everything was there at reasonable prices, and although tempted by a few things I just bought a kaftan and a replica of shadow theatre puppet.

One of the "rules" is bargaining ... and so I did bargain ... or rather, "negotiated" the Kaftan till I was out of  breath, knowing full well the seller was "secretly" enjoying the whole "act" ... a good 20 minute discussion which led to the ultimate price. Both of us were happy with it. I bought a beautiful silk embroidered kaftan for a very good price and he (must have) sold it for a reasonably adjusted price.

Some of us went back to the hotel while others went on a boat trip along the Bosphorus. Having been in the first group, Christian and I just walked around the Hotel quarter trying to get a glimpse of the daily evening rush, prior to getting ready for dinner and the folkloric night at the Kervanseray.

Though there were moments we really enjoyed during the night show (part of which I filmed), we were really glad to have had the privilege of having watched the folkloric night in Cappadocia, because these were in no way similar and the general feeling was that this one was slightly less "genuine", in as much as it was more "westernized"  and tourist oriented.

Somewhere along the night show I was literally dragged to the stage to join the dancers, together with some other foreigners sellected from the public  and ended up learning some steps and partaking in the traditional dance. That was quite an experience ... and I must admit that by the time we went back to the hotel, I was still overexcited and not sleepy at all ...

We have a long way ahead of us tomorrow ... and not having been able to visit Hagia Sophia (closed on Mondays) we shall be visiting it tomorrow morning before heading to Selçuk ...

 

Turkish Mosaic circuit. The morning of day 8. The Sultan Ahmed Mosque -The Topkapi Palace Museum)

11th October 2010
Istambul -
The Sultan Ahmed Mosque - The Topkapi Palace Museum

I can't help  but thinking of some of Orhan Pamuk 's detailed "portrayals" of Istambul, which I "fell in love with" whilst reading his book of memories. I can't expect today's Istambul to be similar to his accounts of the past, nor Ara Güler's black and white photos to resemble the ones I hope to be able to take today ... but the truth is, I am overexcited at the thought of being here ...

We have today visited the Sultan Ahmed Mosque (commonly known as the Blue Mosque),  which was built between 1609 and 1616  and  considered to be the last great Mosque of the classical period. The fact that Sultan Ahmed had it built with 6 minarets led to a lot of criticism at the time, as it had the same number as the Mosque of Ka'aba in Mecca.

If the Mosque is already impressive, as seen from the courtyard, once we walk into it we are immediately taken by its unquestionable magnificence and beauty. Its interior is of a unique graciousness with columns decorated with more than 20,000 Iznit hand made ceramic tiles,  there are more than 200 stained glass windows, whose incoming light is combined with the one of a few chandeliers, and one should not forget the finely carved and sculptured  marble Mihrab with a richly decorated pulpit (Minber).

Gateway to the courtyard of the Mosque (Left). View of the Mosque from the inner courtyard (Right).

Interior view of the Mosque with its Mhirab and Minber (Right). 

The main dome and ceiling of the Mosque.

More than the richness and outstanding beauty of its decoration, I felt an unexpected growing respect and admiration for those who carried out this amazing work of Art, in the name of the allmighty.

As I walked out into the yard and looked back, I felt the Mosque had touched me in an almost undescribable way ...

We then headed towards the Topkapi National Museum, whose Imperial Gate entrance - The Gate of Salutation (Bâbüsselâm) made us realise we were actually walking into an outstanding 1460-1478 Palace, which until the mid 19th century was the residence of the  Ottoman Sultans.

A whole "world" of  gates, chambers and courtyards opened up in front of us, making it difficult to chose in which direction to go ... so we ended up visiting  the Baghdad Kiosk, the Circumcision Chamber and the Fast Breaking Pergola in the fourth courtyard, the Audience Chamber, the Library of Sultan Ahmed III and the Conquerors' pavillion in the third courtyard and finally the Gate of Felicity, the Tower of Justice and the Harem, all of which were located in the second courtyard.

I must admit the pomp and majesty of every chamber, the sumptuosity of the decoration, the fine craftsmanship which was to be seen in every small detail did catch my attention, but it was the Harem, (possibly because each one of us has built up an image of what it might have been and looked like) that was to astound me, because of its architectural, historic and organizational characteristics.

The  Apartment of Favourites (Left). The Imperial Hall (Right).

Detail of the apartment of the Mother of the Sultan (Left). Decorated ceiling in one of the privy rooms of the Sultans (Right). 

We had a "reinforced" lunch at the restaurant inside the Topkapi Museum gardens, as if in preparation for the afternoon  visit to the Grand Bazaar ... , which in its own right (according to what I have read) is also to be accounted for as a cultural place of interest ...

It has been a very interesting though tiring morning, so I just hope I  can manage to walk around some of the Grand Bazaar 45,000 square metres ..., because being an handicraft "lover" I am really dying to see some of the  genuine Turkish handicraft products (hopefully) ...